Show review: Vilsbøl de Arce

Accompanied first by feminine jewelry-box music, the models marched out one-by-one wearing nude make up.

Soon enough, though, the peaceful atmosphere was cut off abruptly by loud dupstep, filling the overcrowded room with dark sounds from London’s underground. The stage was set for a dark, postapocalyptic
mood that emanated death, decadence and sex. Complementing the predominance of black were a range of grays and whites. Especially, the limited color palette drew attention to the silhouettes of Vilsbøl’s sculptural, often asymmetrical pieces. The models’ look, not significantly different from the last collection, was constructed around tightly fitted dresses paired with big, padded shoulders, exhaling powerful feminine sexuality. Especially interesting, were the knitted and braided shoulder cushions, a refreshingly 21st century take on this signature ’80s look. Another focal point for both girls and boys was a rich use of mixed materials like leather, knitwear, suede and shiny fabrics, which kept the mood of the show in accordance with the season. For the boys, the grunge look with drop crotch pants, heavy knits and generally loose fits mixed in well with the overall dark and dramatic mood of the show. Most remarkable however was Vilsbøl de Arce’s ability to show a coherent collection with edge and expression, whilst keeping it wearable.

Read the full paper. Review is on page 29.